Saturday 2nd September, 2023
Day 1
Ravenglass to Wasdale Head Inn — 14.5 miles
08:00
“I woke up this morning feeling fine, with something special on my mind!” That was me humming to myself 48 hours ago, having just looked at the weather forecast for the next two weeks. One hour later, after begging my wife to set me free, I rang the boss to give him the bad news. I then spent the rest of the day planning the itinerary and pre-booking campsites and evening meals. The following day my wife and I were running around like headless chickens, buying essentials and getting all my gear ready. My poor family — the things I put them through! However, with their help, and of course the boss for giving me time off at such short notice, my Lakeland Way adventure would never have started.
I’m now in the process of putting my gear in the car, ready for my wife to take me to Ravenglass on the west coast of Cumbria. It won’t be easy to leave my family behind, as I’ve never spent this much time away from them. Maybe my wife and daughter are looking forward to a break and some freedom, or will they pine for my return? It’s probably best not knowing either way!
11:30
Here I am at the Ravenglass & Eskdale Steam Railway turntable, the starting point of the Lakeland Way. Believe it or not, I’m actually pulling my stomach in for this shot. Maybe I’ll look a tad different at the end? On my Coast to Coast walk in 2011, I actually put on a stone in weight, but that was with the luxury of using a luggage transfer company and staying in posh hotels and B&Bs. However, this walk is going to be very different, as it will include carrying all my gear and camping each night.
So off I go, leaving my wife to hold the fort for twelve days.
I’ve only walked a few hundred yards out of the village and I’m already living off the land, stuffing my face with succulent blackberries. Maybe I didn’t need to carry all this food after all! It looks like the crumbling walls and arches of the Roman bath house have gained some temporary supports after recent concerns about collapse.
Walking over the grassy hill of the old Muncaster deer forest is as pleasant as ever; don’t forget to look back, though — the view of the Irish Sea and the dunes is wonderful.
There’s not much colour to enjoy in the Muncaster gardens in September, but a belly full of blackberries has certainly made up for it! As I did on this occasion, you may hear the bird displays on the estate announced over the speakers. It’s tempting to buy a ticket and have a wander about, but I have many miles to go to reach Wasdale. However, there are refreshments and toilets available if you forgot to go at Ravenglass.
After the short walk along the A595, it’s a gentle climb up Fell Lane towards Muncaster Tarn. Halfway up the track, on the right and under the canopy of trees, the Lakeland Fells appear for the first time. This is a wonderful approach.
12:30
On a tree just a few yards from the edge of Muncaster Tarn, a sign reads: “No public right of way.” However, I’m sure a little sneak in for a photo won’t result in being shot! From there it’s a nice, gentle descent to the valley of Muncaster. If you have time, there’s a golf course on your right — now that would spoil a good walk! The route is now low-level walking, following the valley floors of Muncaster and Eskdale all the way to Boot.
13:15
As I approach Muncaster Head, a large felled tree left by the track provides a good seat. This is a good opportunity to eat some lunch and reflect on my journey so far. Although I’ve only done five miles, Ravenglass already seems a distant memory. It’s strange, that, but probably because of the variation in the route so far. It’s very warm now, with a gentle rustle of wind in the trees, and not a single human to be seen. I feel a little ache in the back of my neck from the heavy pack, but I’m sure my body will adapt over the coming days. Time to move on though, as much ground can be covered fairly quickly through Eskdale.
14:30
After crossing the River Esk at Lord’s Bridge and entering Eskdale, I stopped at the pools next to the ruins of Red Brow to bathe my feet. Not that they deserved it, having only done seven miles, but it was an opportunity not to be missed. The River Esk is beautiful here, cascading its way down the valley before continuing to the estuary at Ravenglass. I only stopped for 20 minutes, but I feel totally refreshed, and my feet are certainly thanking me for the dip.
It’s Saturday, so the path from here and around Boot might be busy with walkers and tourists. Think I’ll don the shorts and show some leg!
15:30
I’ve arrived at the stepping stones over the River Esk, near St Catherine’s Church. During a heavy storm in the spring of 2022, a few of the large boulders shifted out of place, making the crossing almost impossible. I just managed it on this occasion, but it was tricky. The route can be avoided, however, by taking the diversion to Girder Bridge a short distance upstream.
I’m now at the Boot Inn enjoying a cold pint of Pepsi. Not a bad price either, considering it came with WiFi, a toilet, and a top-up of my bottle with clean drinking water. I’ve just pre-booked my evening meal and breakfast here for day 11 and day 12, as I didn’t get the chance when planning my journey on Thursday. After a chat with the landlord, I learned they don’t normally provide walk-in breakfasts, but if you pre-book they’ll try to accommodate you. There are two lovely pubs here in Boot.
16:30
I’ve now walked nine miles from Ravenglass. On the wooden fingerpost just after passing Boot Mill, it states that it’s “5 miles” over the moors and down into the next valley.
17:00
This is the wonderful old packhorse route between Eskdale and Wasdale. It is also known as the “corpse road,” although this theory has been debated in recent years. It’s getting late now, but I know from previous visits that I can cover much ground over these moors.
17:45
Having just crossed Eskdale Moor, I’m now at Burn Moor, sitting by the tarn. It’s very warm with little wind, and my sweat is collecting the sun cream from my forehead and kindly discharging it into my eyes! This damn weather! Not to fear though, ahead I can see the high fells that surround the valley of Wasdale. A hearty pub meal is not far away now.
18:30
Just descending into Wasdale now. Over to my left is Wastwater, very still and like a sheet of blue glass. Ahead, Wasdale Head and the surrounding fells are in clear view, looking as magical as ever.
I’ve arrived at the wonderful stone bridge over Hollow Gill (Holland Bridge).
I’m only one mile from a hot meal, shower, and a bed for the night — well, actually it’ll be a Neo Air mattress in a tent! I’m aching more now around the neck and shoulders; hopefully, as the days go on, my body will get used to carrying the extra weight in my pack. I’m in very good spirits, though.
19:00
Arriving at Wasdale Head Inn was a bit of a shocker. It is a Saturday, of course, and the last weekend before the kids go back to school, so I should’ve known better. As I walked past the main camping field, it was rammed with tents, and the back of the queue for Ritson’s Bar stretched all the way outside. I called at reception and was told that I could pitch my tent on a small grassy area directly behind the hotel. This was a blessing, if truth be told, as I had the whole area to myself.
I pitched up and then returned to the bar at 7:30 pm, only to find that there were no tables free at all, and people were still queuing, hoping for one to become available.
“There’s a burger van just around the back,” a staff member said to me as he squeezed through the queue of hungry people. So off I went to the burger van, only to witness the last burger being served to some lucky chap in front of me!
“Sorry, but we’ve just run out of food!” explained the chief burger flipper. Pasta and soup it is for me, then.
It’s worth noting that when I rang the hotel, I was told that they “don’t take any pre-bookings for tents or food,” and they will “always find a pitch and a table.” So please beware, especially on busy weekends, that you may have to wait a long time to get food, or even go hungry!
21:00
The shower was nice and hot, which was a great way to finish a wonderful day. It was £1 for six minutes, which is ample time. It has been a little noisy around the back, mainly with the odd drinkers and the cleaning of the burger van, but it’s starting to quieten down now.
22:00
All settled down in the tent now. I’ve just finished my pasta with chicken, chorizo, and Ainsley Harriott soup, followed by a dessert of mixed nuts and raisins. The only little noises I can hear are people leaving the car park nearby and the odd three-peakers arriving — they must be mad!
Off to sleep now, so I’ll see you in the morning. Goodnight.
Sunday 3rd September, 2023
Day 2
Wasdale Head Inn to Chapel House Farm – 12 miles
Morning — and what a beautiful, peaceful one it is after the hustle and bustle of the three-peakers. Many were still arriving late last night and heading up to England’s highest mountain. I do hope everyone got down safe and sound; the weather was certainly in their favour.
I only had about three hours of sleep last night. The pitch was nice and it was very quiet later on, but I think yesterday’s big walk was still going through my head, which left me restless. Maybe I walked the whole route again in my mind? It was about 6am when I woke, and after an urgent visit to empty the old bladder, I began organising and packing my gear.
A few tears were shed in the late evening. As I settled in the tent, I was surprised to see how much space I had in there. It then suddenly dawned on me that it was because I didn’t have my faithful friend with me. Frankie, my border collie and best walking buddy, sadly passed away a few months ago, and this was the first camp without him. He had joined me on every recce for the Lakeland Way, so it’s very sad that he’s not with me to walk it all in one go.
07:30
I’m now sat drinking coffee around the back of the hotel, and the tent is hanging over the fence in the hope of reducing some of its moisture. From 8am, the hotel serves breakfast butties from the back door, so it’s worth hanging about a bit. It would’ve been nice to set off walking a little earlier, to be honest, but the fact that I didn’t have a decent meal last night meant the thought of a bacon and egg sandwich was too hard to resist.
08:30
With a satisfied tummy and a well-packed rucksack, I’m now heading towards Saint Olaf’s Church. It’s only about twelve miles to Borrowdale, so a little wander in the church and around the graveyard won’t hurt. I need to be at the Langstrath Country Inn in Stonethwaite for 4pm for a lovely Sunday roast, so I’d best not hang about too long.
Clouds shroud the big tops around Wasdale Head this morning, but it is forecast to be another glorious day.
I’m now on the old packhorse route to Sty Head, and the view looking back to Wasdale Head is absolutely stunning. When I first joined this path, just beyond Burnthwaite Farm, I realised that my pack felt heavier than normal. This, of course, could be due to the fact that I’m rather tired this morning, but also my tent is still saturated. It’s surprising what a difference it makes if you can’t dry your tent before packing it. At that point, I decided to ditch all my water to reduce some weight, and the plan from here was to rely solely on my water filter and collect water on the go. There are plenty of water sources from Sty Head onwards, so I’ll be absolutely fine today.
Ahead, the sun breaks through over the giants of Great End and Broad Crag, and the path is clearly seen rising on its journey towards Sty Head. This is truly a wonderful climb. Yesterday’s walk was a mixed bag of loveliness, but today is a true mountainous adventure. The key here is not to overstretch and to take it slowly on the ascent with small strides; the leg muscles are tired and need time to wake up. Plus, I’m carrying a lot of weight, so the last thing I need is a torn calf muscle.
I’m further up the stony track now, and the views are grand, especially over on my right towards Piers Gill, which scars the landscape beneath the Scafells.
While waiting for my food at the Wasdale Head Inn this morning, I met a lovely lady from Manchester called Denise. We joined forces all the way to Sty Head, chatting about all sorts of things while enjoying the scenery.
10:50
On arriving at the stretcher box at Sty Head, we found ourselves in thick cloud. This was the moment I said goodbye to Denise, as she was planning on walking all the way to Keswick via Seathwaite, Borrowdale, and along Derwent Water.
The cloud soon dispersed when I joined the path heading to Esk Hause. It’s been very slow progress so far, and according to my app, I’ve only managed 1.1 miles per hour.
12:00
I arrived at my highest elevation of today’s walk, Esk Hause, exactly at midday. It’s mainly downhill from here, but it’s very warm now and the bottoms of my feet are starting to ache. This is the downside of walking with a heavy pack over stony ground.
I’m now a bit further down the path from Esk Hause, and over to my left I’m rewarded with a fantastic view down the valley of Langstrath. How wonderful and inviting it looks. While sat here taking a well-earned rest, lots of folk passed me climbing the rock steps from Angle Tarn, probably heading for Scafell Pike via the “long route” from Great Langdale.
12:50
I’m now on the path that leads to the summit of Stake Pass. This path connects two old packhorse routes: one from Wasdale, which continues to Angle Tarn and then down to Langdale, and the Stake Pass route, which rises from Langdale and leads to Borrowdale via the valley of Langstrath. Before I continue on my journey, though, it’s time to rest, eat, and take the opportunity to don the shorts. The view looking back towards Esk Pike is fantastic, with Great End peering over Esk Hause.
13:40
I’ve just arrived at the summit of Stake Pass and I’m joined by a lovely couple from Australia. Like Denise, they’re planning on walking all the way to Keswick.
Anyone who has walked the Cumbria Way will recognise this scene: the beautiful valley of Langstrath from the zig-zags below the summit of Stake Pass. This section of path, and the view down the valley, are certainly the highlight of today’s walk.
14:15
I’ve now arrived at the foot of Stake Pass. At first glance, I seem to have the whole valley to myself, but I know from past experience — and the fact that it is a weekend — that there will be a lot of people at Black Moss Pot further down the valley.
14:40
Black Moss Pot is a very popular place for swimming and diving. I wish I could join them to cool these throbbing feet, to be honest, but I must get to the pub for my pre-booked meal.
15:30
I finally arrived at the Langstrath Country Inn. My feet are killing me after walking along the stony track between Black Moss and the hamlet of Stonethwaite, but as a well-deserved reward for my effort, I’m served a delicious Sunday roast. A generous amount of beef as well, which wasn’t bad for £14.95, and they kindly charged my phone and camera. I actually stayed here for a couple of hours, knowing the campsite wasn’t too far away.
18:50
It was just a short walk off the route to the campsite. The tent is up and I’ve just had a lovely hot shower. Chapel House Farm is my favourite campsite in Lakeland, and it just happens to be in my favourite valley of Borrowdale. I feel very much at home here.
19:15
Because it is such a lovely evening, I’ve taken the opportunity to have a few drinks at the Glaramara Hotel, which is a 15-minute walk from the campsite. What a wonderful setting, and a great way to relax before settling down for some much-needed sleep.
Goodnight from me.
Monday 4th September, 2023
Day 3
Chapel House Farm to Syke Farm – 11.5 miles
Morning all.
I was woken by beautiful bird song this morning, which was rather nice. Don’t you just love nature’s little quirks? Without a doubt, it’s the best alarm clock I could wish for. This was in total contrast to last night’s shenanigans, though…
As a child, did you ever have a nightmare where you felt someone — or something — grabbing your leg under the blankets? Well, this became reality for me last night. I had surprisingly fallen asleep around 10 pm, but I was suddenly woken half an hour later by a hand grabbing my ankle. I turned in the direction of the tent door, only to witness a menacing silhouette of a person who whispered the words: “It’s me!” I paused for what seemed an eternity, staring at this shape, but it wasn’t until the dark figure crawled in towards me that I realized it was my wife, Jaclyn. She then whispered in my ear and said: “I’ve brought your flip-flops, love.”
“Bloody hell, Jaclyn, you terrified the life out of me!” I replied.
“I didn’t want to wake the other campers,” she said, trying to explain her method of putting her husband into an early grave!
When my heart stopped beating as fast as a hummingbird’s wing, I finally got round to thanking Jaclyn for bringing my flip-flops. Then, after a quick kiss and a cuddle, the menacing silhouette left, and I settled back down in my bag with the hope of not having any nightmares.
I got to sleep again and was then woken by a late arrival to the campsite. I looked at my watch — it was midnight! This inconsiderate man, who parked near my tent with his rental campervan, finally finished rummaging through his gear and slamming the sliding door shut at 1:15 am!
I’m not selling this ‘Camping the Lakeland Way’ very well, am I?
Joking apart, it’s a glorious day with clear blue skies all around. I was woken by birds stirring into song first thing, which was rather nice. I’ve had about four hours of sleep — one more than the previous night — and I’m feeling good and looking forward to today’s walk to Buttermere. I had some soup, pasta, and a nice hot coffee for breakfast, and left the campsite at 9:30 am. I know it’s a bit of a lazy start, but there’s no rush today.
Firstly, it’s a short walk back to Stonethwaite to reunite with the Lakeland Way path. Then over Stonethwaite Beck to follow the old track to Rosthwaite.
10:00
Even though it’s only short, this old track between the hamlets of Stonethwaite and Rosthwaite must be one of the most delightful walks in Lakeland. Many folk who are walking the Coast to Coast path are heading in the opposite direction and stopping for a chat. Some were puzzled and thought I was going the wrong way, but I reassured them by explaining that I’m walking this new super-duper long-distance walk.
I arrived at the Flock Inn farm shop in Rosthwaite shortly after it opened at 10 am. Note that the pooch is pulling his stomach in for the photo! I met a very interesting chap who was basically walking around the Lake District with no planning whatsoever. He was carrying very little gear and was simply turning up at places, looking for food and accommodation as he went. I had full admiration for him and wished him well on his journey.
10:40
After some lovely cake from the café, I headed off in the direction of Castle Crag. It is very warm again this morning, and it wasn’t long until I stopped to don the shorts and apply more sunscreen.
What followed, initially, was a steep rock staircase through woodland, and then a narrow, winding path up the slate spoil heap all the way to the summit. I left my rucksack at the foot of the spoil, knowing that it would stay in view for most of the time.
11:30
On the summit now — not bad timing considering the lazy start and all the stops to chat with fellow walkers. I have the summit all to myself, which is unusual but very nice. Castle Crag is the first of only two Wainwright fells included on the Lakeland Way; both follow the theme of the walk being of historical importance: Castle Crag was once a hill fort and then a slate quarry, and High Street was once a Roman road and an old trading route. From the summit, I am rewarded with a splendid view of the Vale of Keswick and Derwent Water. I’ll be walking through Keswick towards the end of tomorrow’s walk.
It was then a much easier walk from Castle Crag to Honister Hause, following the old pack-pony route, which was used to carry slate all the way to Keswick. Poor ponies! The surrounding views are wonderful, but the best of all is looking back towards Castle Crag.
I’ve continued with yesterday’s plan of collecting water on the go. This is making the journey much easier, to be honest — especially in these extremely hot conditions.
13:30
Two hours after leaving the summit of Castle Crag, I’ve arrived at the Honister Slate Mine café — a great place to relax and reflect on my journey so far. I’m happy with my progress today, so there’s no rush for the next part to Buttermere. There are toilets here, WiFi, a gift shop, food, and even a lump of polished slate if you wish to carry it! I couldn’t resist a Cumberland sausage sandwich, though, washed down with an ice-cold fizzy drink.
14:15
Climbing the steep mine road is tough going, especially in this heat, so it will be a great relief to finally reach the highest point of today’s walk — the ruined Drum House, between Honister Hause and Dubs Quarry. From there, it’ll be all downhill, all the way to the valley of Buttermere.
14:45
So far down the old miners’ track, I’ve stopped to collect water and rewarded my feet with a good bathe in a beck. The feet are quite sore now, so I can’t put into words how good this feels.
15:30
Further down the track, and just around the corner, the two lakes of Crummock Water and Buttermere dominate the scene. This is one of the finest views in Lakeland. The track itself, however, is rough, and it is so easy to twist an ankle on this section. Thankfully, I have no need to rush this part down to Warnscale Bottom.
16:30
I’ve now reached the shore of Buttermere. From here, it is about 20 minutes of fairly flat walking all the way to the village and the campsite at Syke Farm.
I arrived at the campsite shortly before 5 pm; however, I struggled to find a good pitch. I wanted my tent to catch the early sun in the morning to dry out, but all of the flat higher ground was taken. The campsite seems quite full, which is not surprising given the great weather. Instead, I pitched my tent in a shaded area beneath a canopy of trees. I sorted out my gear, had a shower, and then headed off to the Bridge Inn, which is basically next door.
18:00
I’ve had an absolutely lovely day walking from Borrowdale to Buttermere, but after the hustle and bustle of the campsite, pitching up, and a good scrub-up, it is very nice to sit here in the hotel and relax — and order some hearty food. I’ve managed to find a seat where there are two sockets to charge my phone, camera, and power bank, which is very handy. This is one of those moments when you can just sit, reflect on today’s walk, and the only thing to worry about is what to pick from the menu.
Well, I went for the “Hungry” version of the steak pie — crickey, you could keep a barn door open with that!
I sat there for three hours in the Bridge Inn. The staff were wonderful, the food was great, and I got chatting with many walkers about their plans, my long-distance walk, and of course the great weather. What a wonderful evening.
Well, that’s it — and I will see you tomorrow. Goodnight.
Tuesday 5th September, 2023
Day 4
Syke Farm to Castlerigg Farm – 18 miles
06:20
Morning all. I woke at 6am to a very peaceful setting here at Syke Farm in Buttermere. I had a far better sleep than the previous two nights, so I’m feeling quite fresh and ready for today’s long walk to Keswick. After a quick visit to the shower block — passing a gauntlet of snoring by the track — I’m now sorting out my gear and trying not to disturb anyone in the process.
Once again, I’m packing away a very wet tent, which must be nearly double its normal weight. Not ideal with a steep climb and 18 miles ahead. So no breakfast or coffee at the campsite today — the plan is to stop further along the route to dry out the tent and cook some food.
07:20
I managed to sneak away at 7am and I’m now on the track that leads to the western shore of Crummock Water. The plan for today is to push beyond the usual Lakeland Way stopover at Braithwaite and continue through Keswick to Castlerigg Farm — this will help with logistics further along the route, which includes two wild camps.
The sun is not quite up yet, so for now the walk feels unusually cool compared to the past three days. But with the forecast predicting the hottest day of my twelve-day adventure, and with a long walk and very sore feet ahead, I’ll need to take extra care.
The sun is now with me and it didn’t take long for the valley to warm up. Ahead I can see High Ling Crag and Low Ling Crag — the latter a boss of rock jutting into Crummock Water, and the ideal spot to peg out my tent to dry and finally enjoy some breakfast.
08:30
Chicken soup and pasta it is, followed by a much-needed coffee. All my gear is now spread out over the rock, including dry bags, towel, and of course my socks. What a sight! Thankfully it’s still very early, so I hope I’m not spoiling anyone’s view.
10:00
Selfie time! Not exactly a mountain-man look, but I could do with a shave.
Back on the track now and feeling great after that stop. I stayed on Low Ling Crag for an hour; I know I used precious time so early on, but it was worth fuelling up and drying the tent out so as not to carry the extra weight for the rest of today’s walk. It was a wonderful experience sitting there for so long, drinking coffee and admiring the views around the lake. At one point a swimmer arrived at the rock, having just swum across from the eastern shore. I waved as he turned to go back across, but I’m guessing he couldn’t return the compliment due to the danger of drowning.
11:00
I arrived at the northern tip of Crummock Water in good time, and it was nice to see so many people enjoying this lovely weather. It’s a very popular spot for bathing and dog walkers, and for mums meeting up for picnics with their children. Beyond that lies Lanthwaite Wood, which I’m now walking through; the wooded terrace path is a particularly fine section of the route. This is a great example of how varied the Lakeland Way is, breaking the journey into different stretches of beautiful scenery.
It’s getting very warm now as we approach midday, and my water is running low. Thankfully the next water source, Gasgale Gill, is not far away. On leaving the wood and approaching Lanthwaite Green, the formidable gash of Gasgale Gill appears ahead, flanked by Whiteside and the towering northern slopes of Grasmoor. The gill itself will be my passage into the next valley of Coledale and beyond.
12:00
I arrived at the foot of the gill and decided to take the short scrambling route by the cascades rather than the usual higher traverse. In these dry conditions it’s worth going this way, though care must be taken on the rock sections. It’s now midday and I’m sat relaxing at the beginning of the scramble, right at the foot of the main waterfall. To be honest, I don’t want to leave — it’s so lovely to sit here bathing these sore feet.
12:40
I’m now well into Gasgale Gill, having just completed the scrambling section above the series of cascades. It’s fairly flat going through the midsection, though in recent years the path has suffered from many landslips after bouts of heavy and prolonged rain. In places small sections of the path have been completely washed away.
13:35
I’ve finally reached the top of the mountain pass, Coledale Hause, and the highest point of today’s walk. To be honest, I’m exhausted after that climb. The last section of the path, which ascends steeply by the final couple of waterfalls, was especially tough going. My right foot is starting to cause me some pain — the combination of the extremely hot weather, rough terrain, and the weight of my rucksack is beginning to take its toll on both feet, though the right one is far worse. The rest of my body is fine; my back and neck are coping well with the weight, and my legs are feeling strong.
I wasted no time at the col and began the descent into the next valley of Coledale.
14:10
I’m now further down from the col, and I have a grand view of the valley ahead. I cannot take water from this valley due to contamination from Force Crag Mine and the surrounding workings, and I am running low, so I’m keen to reach civilisation. From here, I have a clear view of the old mine road, which I’ll follow to Braithwaite, where I’m hoping to devour an ice lolly from the village shop. You certainly can’t beat that for incentive to crack on — especially in this heat!
15:10
The village of Braithwaite is now in clear view from the mine road. It didn’t take me long to reach the valley floor and start walking along this old road. I was really looking forward to this section — and the next section between Braithwaite and Keswick — knowing both would be fairly flat all the way. That little shop is getting closer!
15:30
What rotten luck — I’ve just arrived at the village shop in Braithwaite and it’s closed. I’m dehydrated and very tired, having foolishly relied on the shop for refreshments. I’ll certainly not make that mistake again! Never mind, I’ll just march on through. Thankfully, the walk from Braithwaite to Keswick, via the village of Portinscale, is fairly flat and only a couple of miles. Waiting for me there is a nice meal and a parcel from home.
16:30
I’m now in the centre of Keswick, having just collected my parcel from the Spar garage. Surprisingly, the walk through the town feels like a welcome change from the loneliness of the valleys over the past four days. No time for shopping yet, though — I must head to Wetherspoons, as I’m absolutely spitting feathers!
More bad luck — apparently all the fryers are “out of order” in Wetherspoons, so there’s only pizza, jacket potatoes, and salad available! Anyway, while in here I’m going to have a good rest and take on some fluids. First, though, it’s time to open my wonderful parcel of fresh goodies, which includes meals and snacks for the next four days, gas, two baselayers, razor and gel, walking trousers, undercrackers, and socks. What more does a man want? Well, some Compeed blister plasters would’ve been handy! This is something I knew I’d forgotten to pack, and to my shock, the lady at the Spar garage told me that due to it being so busy — and because of the extreme heat we’ve been having — apparently there’s nowhere in Keswick to buy them. All the shops, including Boots Chemist, have sold out of blister plasters.
17:45
I’ve spent well over an hour in Wetherspoons — that’s a lot of coffee — but I also took the opportunity to have a shave in the gents. The razor and gel, and a lot of my smelly stuff, are all going back in the return parcel for home. What a lovely surprise for my wife!
I’m now off to do a bit of shopping, but I also think it’s best to purchase some basic plasters to temporarily protect my feet.
18:40
After tucking into some chips and curry from the Old Keswickian — which went down a treat — I continued on my journey and headed for the eastern shore of Derwent Water. I’m now sat at the headland of Calfclose Bay, admiring the splendid view south over the lake and towards the Jaws of Borrowdale. From here, I will follow the track rising through Great Wood and then continue to Castlerigg Farm, where I’ll be camping for the night.
19:50
I’ve finally arrived at Castlerigg Farm, just in time to pitch before sunset and take this photo. What a lovely site — there’s a nice little shop, a fantastic clean shower block, and plenty of flat ground to pitch. It was 18 miles today, one of the toughest days’ walking I’ve ever had in the Lake District, mainly due to the heat. I was limping quite badly on the final section through Great Wood, but I’m so glad for the hot shower and the chance to lie down in my tent and relax. It’s been a grand day — tough, but so varied with wonderful Lake District scenery.
I’m now a third of the way along my Lakeland journey. It’s goodnight from me.
For part two follow this link: Camping the Lakeland Way – Days 5 to 8