Wednesday 6th September, 2023
Day 5
Castlerigg Farm to Brown Hills – 13 miles
07:35
Morning all, and it’s another glorious start. I had a wonderful night here at Castlerigg Farm — six solid hours of sleep — and I’m feeling pretty good, apart from my right foot which is still sore after yesterday’s epic walk from Buttermere. I’ve had a lazy start, making the most of the excellent facilities; the showers are free and spacious, so I couldn’t resist another dip before breakfast. Sadly, it’s plain old pasta and soup again, but at least I’ve got a good variety of snacks to keep me going on the way to Brown Hills.
08:40
I’ve been sat here for an hour now, chatting with fellow campers and just relaxing — anyone would think I was on holiday! Still, I’d best start packing up my gear and preparing for another hot day’s walking on the Lakeland Way.
10:00
How do you move two horses from a gate? They were actually in separate fields but had obviously come together for a good old natter. I couldn’t persuade them to budge, so in the end I had to climb over a stone wall. Hopefully nobody saw this little fiasco!
I didn’t really want to leave the campsite; in fact, I hung around long enough for the tent to completely dry and eventually set off at 9:30am. I’m now on the track heading east from the site, with Blencathra dominating the view ahead.
10:45
I’m sitting on a rocky outcrop, looking back towards Castle Rigg (the campsite is out of view on the other side of the ridge). Walking over these grassy, open fields was a delight this morning, and my feet are certainly thankful for it. However, this feeling won’t last for long: a mile away lies the beginning of the Old Coach Road, a five-mile stony track all the way to Dockray. First, though, it’s a visit to St John’s Church.
11:00
I’ve just arrived at the church only to discover that the outside tap is “out of order.” Yet again I’ve made the silly mistake of expecting things to be the same as on previous visits — just as I did with the shop in Braithwaite. I hadn’t carried much water from the campsite, and I know that anything collected along the Old Coach Road will be poor quality — brown and peaty at best. Thankfully, the lads from the hostel/adventure centre next door came to the rescue, topping up my bottles. After a good chat about all things outdoors, I was soon on my way again, heading towards St John’s in the Vale.
11:20
Selfie time! It’s getting very warm now, so the shorts are back on. These white legs are sure to sparkle and blind any fellow walkers passing by! Still, needs must in this heat.
12:15
I’ve now reached the start of the Old Coach Road, where I stopped for a chat with two gents who had just come down from the Dodds — a cluster of fells to the south. They were finishing early to avoid the worst of the afternoon heat. One of them asked where I was heading, so I said: “I’m walking the full length of the Old Coach Road to Dockray, and then I’m going to wild camp on Brown Hills overlooking Ullswater.” His reply: “What, this track, in this heat? It’s horrible!” Well, I suppose the Old Coach Road is a bit like Marmite, but personally I don’t mind it. After all, one of the great things about the Lakeland Way is tackling all the different terrains the Lake District has to offer.
After the first half-mile the road climbs steeply and is rough in places, but it soon becomes more forgiving once it levels out beyond the old quarries and spoil heaps. The worst of the rough ground can usually be avoided by keeping to the grassy verge on the left.
The dominant view along the Old Coach Road is of Blencathra at its finest, its southern face carved with a dramatic pattern of gills and ridges.
13:10
I’m now on Hausewell Brow, a section of the road that rises gently over Threlkeld Common. The usual meaning of “hause” is a high col between two mountains, but here it likely means a high road. The “well” is a natural spring from which the fell ponies are seen here drinking from, while “brow” is referring to the northern slope of Clough Head.
13:20
I’ve now reached the summit of Hausewell Brow — the highest point of today’s walk. From here, I can see the Old Coach Road winding below the escarpment of fells as it continues towards Dockray. I’m at the two-mile mark, so there are still three miles to go before reaching tarmac. It’s getting very hot now, but I’ve got enough water, and thankfully the road becomes much easier to walk along from this point onwards.
13:50
It’s always nice to look back and see the scenery from a different angle. From Barbary Rigg, there’s a grand view of Clough Head, and the gentle undulation of the road is quite striking.
14:35
What a pleasure it is to finally reach smoother ground. I’m now marching down the road towards Dockray, but I’ll be leaving it just before the village to take a diversion and visit the wonderful Matterdale Church.
14:50
The diversion to the church looks a little unorthodox on the map, but after walking five miles over rough, stony ground followed by a mile of tarmac, your feet will be thankful for these lovely green pastures at the head of Matterdale. This extra mile is a delight, and a visit to the church is highly recommended.
It’s worth noting that Matterdale Church is the furthest point, as the crow flies, from Ravenglass on the Lakeland Way. From the church, you are officially heading back towards Ravenglass.
15:45
I arrived at the Royal Hotel just before 3 pm, only to find that they had stopped serving meals at 2:15 pm! Never mind, though — a pint of Pepsi, some ice water, crisps, and a packet of pork scratchings will do for this adventurer. It was also a great opportunity to freshen up, relax, and charge all my batteries. Many thanks to the Royal for allowing me to do so.
17:15
It was 4:30 pm when I left the hotel, and I’m now on the path through Gowbarrow Park, following the cascades all the way down to the Lake District’s most popular waterfall, Aira Force.
The view from the upper stone bridge, spanning above the main waterfall, is spectacular. From here, I can see the steep steps rising from the lower bridge — the ones I’ll be taking for the final section of my walk today.
17:30
The walk down from Dockray to Aira Force was delightful. It was also nice to walk in some shade and escape the heat for a while. I’ve just arrived at the lower stone bridge at the foot of the main waterfall, and two ladies are swimming in the pool — quite a pleasant sight, indeed. It is also nice to see the area not too crowded, as it can get very busy at times.
The two ladies caught up with me while I was taking my time climbing the steep steps to the car park above. After a brief exchange of banter, they asked if I wanted to join them for a swim “down at the lake.” Now, two lovely women invite you for an evening swim, and here I am: stinking, hot, tired, and fed up with this bloody heavy rucksack. So, guess what I did? Yes, I said no and trudged on. I’m sure they thought I was a boring sod!
17:50
I’m now walking along the path through Glencoyne Park, an ancient deer park that runs along above the northern shore of Ullswater. The path is easy to follow, but it’s overgrown on both sides with tall bracken, which is beginning to turn brown. Cattle roam freely here and often wander along the path, churning it up and leaving the occasional “present” behind!
18:15
It’s getting hazy now, and the light is starting to fade in Glencoyne Park. I’m over halfway along the path and have just stopped to collect some water from Far Swan Beck. After that, it’ll be a final push to Brown Hills, where I’ll be spending the night. Ullswater dominates the view, but the distant fells are still visible through the haze.
19:45
That last steep climb to Brown Hills was a proper killer. It was very hot, and by the end my energy levels were almost gone. The climb seemed endless, and at one point I felt like I was crawling! I reached the summit at 7 pm, the same time I arrived at the campsite the night before. I quickly pitched my tent, kicked off my boots, and simply collapsed inside. I’ve been lying here ever since, not even unpacking anything yet. Still, it was worth it — just look at that view over Ullswater! What a fantastic spot for my first Lakeland Way wild camp.
It’s been another hot day on my Lakeland journey. The forecast for tomorrow predicts warmth, high cloud, and “extensive” haze, so I’m expecting it to be a little cooler, though not ideal for photos.
Goodnight, folks. I’ll see you tomorrow. Now, where’s my damn stove?
Thursday 7th September, 2023
Day 6
Brown Hills to Sykeside – 10.5 miles
08:00
Morning from the summit of Brown Hills. What a contrast to the last five days! I woke at 6 am, only to see a disappointing sunrise thanks to the extensive cloud and haze. Shortly after, I found myself drifting back to sleep, which is a rare treat when I’m wild camping. I came back to life around 7:45 am. Despite the change in conditions, the views over a very still Ullswater are spectacular. It’s moments like this that really stick with you.
08:30
I am an experienced wild camper, so, to stick with the code of “arrive late and leave early,” I packed up in a record time of 25 minutes and decided that I would eat my breakfast on the go. As predicted, today is not going to be a good day for photos due to the haze, so my camera is packed away, and I’ll just use my mobile to capture any points of interest.
In the distance, I can just make out the valley of Patterdale, which is my destination for tonight’s base camp. I must admit, I’m really looking forward to a nice hot shower and a hearty pub meal. Firstly, though, I have over ten miles to walk, which will include visiting the three valleys of Glenridding, Grisedale, and Patterdale.
“Morning!”
So the following chorus was stuck in my head for the next 20 minutes:
“Ba-Ba-Ba-Ba-Barbara Ann
Ba-Ba-Ba-Ba-Barbara Ann
Barbara Ann
Take my hand
Barbara Ann
You got me rockin’ and a rollin’
Rockin’ and a reelin’
Barbara Ann
Ba-Ba-Ba-Barbara Ann!”
Damn, I’m losing control of my mind! Anyway, off I go, leaving the summit of Brown Hills. I’m feeling okay this morning, and my feet are a little better now. However, I really need to get some Compeed plasters if I’m going to complete all twelve days of the Lakeland Way; my initial thought is to take a detour off the route to the village shop in Glenridding. They also sell pies there!
09:15
My first objective this morning is to collect some water and then continue along the old miners’ path to the mountain pass of Nick Head (seen on the left). This very narrow path, which traverses all the way around the head of Glencoyne Valley, was created and used by miners travelling from their homes to Greenside Mine, located over the pass in the neighbouring valley of Glenridding. Imagine that — in all weathers!
09:30
One hour after leaving Brown Hills, I’ve arrived at these wonderful cascades in Wintergrove Gill — what a lovely name, location, and taste! You simply cannot beat drinking from a Lakeland beck.
Bottle full now, and enough to last me until I reach civilisation in Glenridding or Patterdale; I don’t want to drink from the water sources on the other side of Nick Head due to contamination from the old mine workings.
09:50
Well, here I am, sat resting at the head of Glencoyne Valley — and what a view it is. When the sun briefly peeks through the high cloud, it soon warms the air, but generally it is much cooler than the previous five days.
10:25
I’ve arrived at the mountain pass of Nick Head, the highest point of today’s walk. I’m rewarded with a fine view of Helvellyn and Raise before beginning my descent into the next valley.
10:50
After visiting various sites among the upper workings of Greenside Mine, I’ve now arrived at the beginning of the final descent into the valley of Glenridding. Although very rough underfoot, the steepness is eased by an old mine road that twists its way through the boulder field.
When I reach Gillside further down the valley, my plan is to divert to the village of Glenridding to pick up a few essentials. I will then return and rejoin the Lakeland Way path to Patterdale. This will only add a little over a mile to my walk today. There is no rush, though — today is a gentle 10 miles or so to the campsite at Sykeside in Patterdale.
11:30
I was just about to walk past the youth hostel at the foot of Greenside Mine when I noticed a sign saying, “Cafe and Bar.” Well, I couldn’t resist, of course.
Inside, I met the first human of the day — a really nice chap from Oxford called Jamie. He had climbed Helvellyn yesterday and twisted his ankle coming down Swirrel Edge, so today he was just lounging around the hostel. We sat chatting for some time and even compared our wounds, like a scene from the film Jaws. I mentioned that I was going to take a detour to the village for some Compeed, but then Jamie very kindly offered to take me in his car.
“Are you sure, matey, with your bad ankle?” I asked.
“Yes, of course,” he said. “I drive an automatic anyway!”
“Well, please allow me to buy you a pie for your trouble,” I replied.
Both now drooling with excitement, we were soon heading down Greenside Road. In the village, we sat eating our pies and had a right good natter about our outdoor adventures, and it wasn’t until 1 pm that I finally re-joined the Lakeland Way.
What a wonderful feeling it is to have the comfort of Compeed plasters. Many thanks to Jamie for being an absolute star.
13:20
I’ve just reached the footbridge over Glenridding Beck, and I can feel a change in the air. When we had returned to the hostel, the chap at the café bar had mentioned that “thunderstorms are predicted for the afternoon.” To be honest, some rain would certainly be welcome to clear the air.
13:50
When I arrived at the ‘seat with a view’ near Lanty’s Tarn, having just ascended out of the valley, I met two lovely people who were heading for the summit of Keldas. We were just chatting away when suddenly the wife turned to her husband and said: “Oh no, it’s raining!” They then had to endure the sight of me dancing about like a lunatic in sheer joy, having felt my first raindrops on my Lakeland Way journey. The rain only lasted ten minutes, but it felt so wonderful!
It was nice to see that the path through the wooded area around Lanty’s Tarn had been cleared of fallen trees. Severe storms had caused considerable damage, and the whole area had been closed for a couple of years. Lanty’s Tarn looks a bit drab today, but in deep autumn on a clear, sunny day, it’s a magnificent place to visit.
14:10
I’ve now dropped down into the valley of Grisedale. It’s a straightforward down-and-then-up as I cross this valley and enter the next one.
15:35
Following a brief stop at the Patterdale Hotel for a pint of lemonade, I continued on my way into the valley of Patterdale. This wonderful old packhorse route on the eastern side of the valley, leading towards the hamlet of Hartsop, is one of my favourite tracks on the Lakeland Way.
16:15
After arriving at Hartsop, I left the Lakeland Way path and followed the Brothers Water shoreline to Sykeside Campsite. This diversion, which I’ll retrace in the morning, only adds about 1.5 miles to the overall route.
18:15
I arrived at the campsite at 4:30 pm, which is a lovely change from my two previous finishes of 7 pm. This gave me plenty of time to relax and sort out my feet, which have been rewarded for their effort with Compeed plasters today — so let’s see how they cope with the rest of the journey. The showers are very nice here, and the shop is well-stocked with treats and essentials. One thing I never thought I’d miss on this trip is an orange; I’ve had no fruit at all for nearly a week, so this was a welcome treat.
A few other items I bought from the shop were shampoo, deodorant, kitchen roll, and a tin of Spam for breakfast! After I pitched the tent, I limped to the showers with my new bottle of shampoo; I didn’t bother taking soap because I thought I would wash all over with the shampoo. However, after a good dollop was applied, I soon discovered it was conditioner — which is not ideal for washing body parts that have been baked in mud, sweat, and sun cream for 12 hours! This was followed by the application of my deodorant, only to find that I’d actually bought antiperspirant!
20:30
I’ve just returned to the tent after having a lovely meal at the Brotherswater Inn. I had Cumberland sausage with roast potatoes and veg, all washed down with a refreshing pint of cider. This was a well-deserved treat, don’t you think? I got chatting with a lady on the next table who was doing one of those ‘on a whim’ holidays, with no planned routes or booked accommodation. I found her story very interesting, but sitting so close together, I wonder what she thought of my scent of Alberto “Coconut and Lychee” conditioner, with a hint of Lynx “The G.O.A.T. of Fragrance” antiperspirant?
Well, I’m at the halfway stage of the Lakeland Way — that’s six days completed, with six to go.
Goodnight all.
Friday 8th September, 2023
Day 7
Sykeside to Robin Lane – 12.5 miles
06:35
It’s a very wet and misty start to the day; my tent is saturated, and the sun won’t reach this part of the valley until much later in the morning. This means I’ll be carrying a heavy pack again, though I’ll find a suitable spot further along the route to dry my gear out.
I didn’t sleep well last night. I was unsettled, and it wasn’t helped by a late arrival at 11pm who had no regard for anyone else on the site. As a result, he was finally booted off by the owner. On top of that, even though they weren’t near my tent, a small group were talking and laughing loudly until well after midnight. I suppose some noise is to be expected at times, though I hope they didn’t mind me ‘accidentally’ knocking over their table of empty beer bottles at 6am this morning!
Generally, it’s a very nice campsite with great facilities, and even though it’s not exactly on the Lakeland Way path, the beautiful location makes the short detour to reach it well worthwhile.
07:00
A few things amused me this morning. In the toilet block, I saw a chap washing his face while wearing a big woolly hat, and on the way back to my tent I spotted a bright red tent with camouflage mesh thrown over it. The real highlight, though, came as I sat tucking into my Spam and pasta breakfast (yuk!): watching the crows raid the unoccupied tents. These highly intelligent birds have learned to watch campers head off to the toilets each morning, then swoop straight in, flying off with anything they can manage to carry. It was fantastic entertainment!
09:05
I left the campsite at 8:15am and enjoyed a lovely, peaceful walk along the eastern shore of Brothers Water and through the hamlet of Hartsop. From the gate on leaving the village, I caught sight of Gray Crag in the early morning haze. Once again, it looks set to be another very hot day, and on this section I’ll be heading over the high fells where water will be at a premium. With that in mind, I plan to refill my bottles and dry the tent out somewhere in Haweswater Gill.
I’ve finally reached the footbridge that spans Haweswater Beck. Even though it was only a steady incline, my progress along the stony track that runs parallel with the gill was painfully slow — the heat was unbearable! Still, I’m here now, and I’ve just finished putting my washing out. It’s the perfect spot for the job, though I don’t want to spoil anyone else’s day by creating such an eyesore, so I won’t linger too long. One couple passed by, and I apologised for the mess, but they seemed to find it quite amusing.
10:30
It wasn’t long before I was back on the trail. All my gear is now completely dry and neatly packed away for the journey to Troutbeck. Ahead looms the steep climb to The Knott, which has been on my mind all morning. The old packhorse route once zigzagged up the grassy slope, but it has long since faded and is barely visible now. The newer path — formed by walkers more often using it in descent — runs straight up and makes for a tedious climb to the escarpment above.
11:30
It took me 45 minutes to reach the escarpment path, which isn’t bad going considering the heat. I’m relieved that climb is behind me, and glad to be joining the Coast to Coast path and meeting fellow long-distance walkers. It’s always nice to hear about their journeys, and it gave me the perfect chance to tell them about this new super-duper long-distance walk I’m on.
The walking is much more enjoyable now, with the path only undulating gently as it follows the escarpment towards High Street. I do have to be careful, though — I’ll be facing the sun all the way along these tops, and there’s no water source available. I’ve one full bottle left, and it has to last until I reach the spring on the descent into Troutbeck valley.
12:30
I’m now sitting at the trig point on High Street, the highest point of the Lakeland Way at 828m (2,716ft). The heat is a little more bearable thanks to a light breeze from the south. The haze is dreadful, though, so there’s not much chance of photography. Still, I’m feeling good: my fitness is holding up, and my feet are coping far better since I started using the Compeed plasters. It’s hard to explain, but it now feels as though I’m walking back to Ravenglass.
13:45
Look at that haze! I’ve reached the point where the Roman road begins its descent into the Troutbeck valley, yet looking ahead I can barely see the valley floor through the haze. I’m also conscious that the temperature down there will be much higher than it was on the tops, so I’d best track down the spring and refill my bottles.
There’s no better taste, no greater reward for all the effort. I’ve never felt so alive!
14:30
I reached the valley floor by mid-afternoon, which I’m pleased with, especially given the heat. From here it’s just a little over three miles of flat walking to the pub in Troutbeck. My table’s booked for 17:00, so there’s no rush; it’s simply a matter of keeping hydrated and taking it steady along the valley floor. For entertainment, I’ve the added pleasure of watching the farmers gather up their sheep.
15:45
I reached the Mortal Man in Troutbeck much quicker than expected — an hour before dinner is even served. Never mind; it gives me the chance to have a proper rest and catch up with family and social media. I can’t describe how good a pint of Pepsi and a pint of iced water taste after a walk like that. Not so sure about the Lancashire crisps, though!
After my Lancashire starter, I enjoyed a nice plate of fish and chips with an extra portion of onion rings (I think I deserved it). Staying here for a while also gave me the chance to fully charge my phone, camera, and power bank. I can’t thank the staff enough for their wonderful hospitality.
18:15
With such a lovely evening in the valley, I decided to take the opportunity to visit the church a little further along the path. Incredibly, I had spent over two hours in the pub, but there’s still plenty of time, and my pitch on Robin Lane isn’t far. I’ve collected all the water I need from the pub, along with a few other “wild” essentials — chocolate and a can of pop!
19:30
My original plan was to wild camp next to the survey pillar slightly above Robin Lane. It’s on open access land, but all the sheep in the field had congregated around the pillar. Not wanting to disturb them, I used a bit of common sense and pitched a little further along the track, just above the bridleway on a grassy mound with a view of Windermere. I’m not strictly on open access land, but if the landowner arrives, I’ll simply explain my reasoning.
Tomorrow will be more touristy, including a walk through Ambleside, Rydal, and Grasmere, before reaching my next wild camping spot on Dow Bank.
Goodnight from me.
Saturday 9th September, 2023
Day 8
Robin Lane to Dow Bank – 9.5 miles
06:55
Where has Windermere gone? Never mind — I have a wall and a few trees to admire while tucking into my breakfast. I woke at 6:30am and managed more sleep than the previous night, though it was so warm in the tent that I slept on my bag and just in my pants! My feet are feeling much better this morning, and today’s easy, low-level walk through Ambleside, Rydal, and Grasmere will certainly give them a well-earned easier day.
It’s no surprise the sheep are so silent this morning after their busy night of stomach rumbling and moaning to themselves. One was playing music with a metal gate at 2am, and another… well, have you ever heard a cat coughing up a hairball? I’m not sure what this sheep was trying to bring up, but it went on for an hour or so.
Anyhow, I’m not far from Ambleside, where I’ve booked a table for a full English breakfast, which will go down very well after this Minestrone starter! First, though, I must get up and start packing away my gear.
Yet again, I have a saturated tent. It’s remarkable to think it hasn’t actually seen a drop of rain during this trip — not bad after seven nights in Lakeland! However, with the fly made of silnylon, it soaks up the morning dew like a sponge. Unfortunately, today’s walk offers limited opportunities to dry it out, so it looks like I’ll be carrying the extra weight all the way to my wild camp on Dow Bank.
09:00
Robin Lane and Skelghyll Lane, which link Troutbeck with Ambleside, are wonderful tracks to walk along. They never disappoint, even on a morning like this, shrouded in thick mist. It is these tracks — and the Coffin Route further along — that inspired me to develop a long-distance walk in the Lake District.
10:00
I reached Ambleside around 9:30am and headed straight for the Spar garage to pick up my parcel of goodies, which — like my previous parcel at Keswick — includes enough fresh clothes and food for the final four days. I’m now sitting in Stiles Café Bar, where I had pre-booked a table. I’m so ready for this, and I even ate my tomato!
The parcel included meals and snacks for the next four days, a gas canister, two base layers, a razor and gel, walking trousers, undercrackers, and two pairs of socks. My wife will have the pleasure of opening the return parcel.
12:15
Wow, that breakfast was fantastic, but what followed was even better for this solo walker. I took the opportunity to enjoy a hot shower and a long, relaxing rest at the YHA Ambleside. I’m now completely refreshed and ready to continue my journey. It was a bit of a walk down to the hostel at Waterhead, but well worth the detour. The hostel is more than happy to provide a free hot shower for anyone passing through on a walk like mine. Thank you so much for the wonderful hospitality!
13:00
I finally left Ambleside, so that was three and a half hours of eating, scrubbing, and shopping. This section of the Lakeland Way — Day 8, Troutbeck to Grasmere — is more like a “rest” day, really, even though it still includes ten miles of walking. The route is fairly easy and is one of the loveliest walks in the Lake District. Combine this day with Day 9, Grasmere to Coniston, and personally I think they are the two best sections of the Lakeland Way.
I’m now on the track leading to the wonderful gardens of the Rydal Estate.
13:30
I’ve just arrived at the bridge that offers a fine view of Grot House and the main waterfall in Rydal Gill. What a wonderful setting! There’s a café here and woodlands to explore if you have the time.
The short diversion through Rydal Woodlands is well worth it. Here are the Jubilee Figures by Keith Western and Neil Powell, created as part of their campaign to highlight the effects of third-world debt.
13:50
I’m now on the Coffin Route, heading towards the village of Grasmere. The mist has cleared, and it’s becoming very warm again. I love this track — the way it traverses and undulates above the busy traffic below is simply wonderful. It’s a dream to walk along.
14:30
I’ve arrived in Grasmere. There’s plenty to do here — wander around the shops, visit the Wordsworth graves, or spend the afternoon feasting on gingerbread.
15:00
I’ve just sat down in the middle of the village green to relax and enjoy some grapes bought from the nearby Co-op. Behind me, two banjo players provide the afternoon’s entertainment. The sun is out, the village is bustling with tourists, and I’m just lying here, thinking about my journey. This is bliss, and I don’t want it to end.
15:30
Well, that was very relaxing — I’ve never had such a lazy and pampered walking day. I’m now leaving Grasmere, heading down Red Bank Road. Ahead I can see Dow Bank, the ridge where I plan to wild camp for the night. I have all the water I need, along with a few snacks from the shop.
16:10
The route I’m now following is an ancient road that once linked Grasmere with the villages of Chapel Stile and Elterwater in the next valley. Long forgotten as a “road” and probably little used by walkers, I personally think it’s a wonderful route that deserves to be brought back to life. Walking through the wooded area is a delight, with some very impressive beech trees along the way.
18:30
I reached the summit at 5pm and lingered a bit, but dark clouds were moving in from the south, so I pitched the tent earlier than I would have liked. I got lucky and found a lovely spot overlooking the villages of Elterwater and Chapel Stile. I had just finished tightening the flysheet when it started to rain. It lasted only ten minutes, just like at Lanty’s Tarn on Day 6. So, in total, that’s only twenty minutes of rain over eight days and seven nights in Lakeland!
19:10
After dinner, I noticed some clear skies forming to the west. I quickly got my boots back on and witnessed a fantastic sunset.
Tomorrow’s walk is my personal favourite section of the Lakeland Way. Thunderstorms are forecast from midday onwards and throughout the night, so I’ll need to be careful and have all my waterproofs handy. Thankfully, I have a pitch pre-booked in the field at the Coniston Sports Club, so I won’t be wild camping tomorrow night.
Goodnight, folks!