The combination of fording the River Esk and the beach walk to Ravenglass forms the grand finale of the Lakeland Way. However, a low-tide window is required to cross the river at the Eskmeals Viaduct and continue the mile or so to the Market Cross in the centre of the coastal village.
The length of this window is subjective and can be one hour (comfortable) or two hours (doable) on either side of low tide; both are very safe. In my experience, the water level has never reached above my knees at one and a half hours on either side of a low ‘spring’ tide (see Neap Tides and Spring Tides below). With this in mind, it is important to plan your Lakeland Way adventure so that low tide falls in the afternoon, as this crossing comes at the end of day 12. Ideally, a low tide between 3pm and 4pm would be my preference, but anytime between 2pm and 5pm is also workable.
Tide Times
Tide times tell you when the water will be at its highest point (high tide) and at its lowest point (low tide). In the UK, there are usually two high tides and two low tides in a 24-hour period. The times at which high and low tide occur change from day to day. For example, if the tide is at its lowest at 3pm today, it is likely to be later tomorrow.
Tide times are generally available for the next seven days for around 500 port locations around the UK and can be predicted with a high degree of accuracy. However, due to storm surges and other factors, predicting tide times a long way into the future can be less accurate.
For a weekly forecast: www.tideschart.com/Ravenglass
For a long-range forecast: Tide Tables
Although tide times are generally reliable, long periods of bad weather can cause the sea to swell and push tides into the estuaries before the predicted times, so it’s important to assess the conditions and make an informed decision on the day. Other factors may also play a part; for example, you could be delayed due to unforeseen circumstances or may have misjudged the time it takes to walk the final day.
It is at Stainton Tower that a decision can be made on which route to take to Ravenglass: whether to continue on the Lakeland Way to Waberthwaite and Newbiggin and then ford the River Esk at Eskmeals Viaduct, or to travel by taxi to Ravenglass from the hamlet of Broad Oak, which is located on the A595 less than a mile further along the route from Stainton Tower. The weather and the time are the main factors in this decision. If you wish, you could finish the last few miles of the Lakeland Way the following day when it is safer to cross the estuary.
The local taxi company is: Sim’s Travel
Please note the following when considering other options to reach Ravenglass: it is not recommended to attempt to ford the River Esk at Hall Waberthwaite, or to walk along the A595 due to fast-moving traffic.
Crossing the River Esk
The south bank and the first part of the riverbed are muddy, but fortunately you only sink in about an inch or so. However, it is very slippery, so it’s best crossed at this point barefoot. For a slightly easier approach with less mud, avoid the slipway into the river and walk 20 yards to the left along the south bank. Enter the river at this point, then divert back towards the viaduct. A few metres across, the mud soon turns to soft sand and the water is shallow. From the centre onwards, the water is deeper and the riverbed is a combination of sand and shale. This can be a little uncomfortable on the soles of the feet, so some form of footwear is beneficial at this point. Aqua shoes are highly recommended.
If the conditions are right and time is on your side, I cannot think of a better way to complete “A long-distance walk through the beautiful English Lake District.”
The following two photos show the water level at three hours before a low ‘spring’ tide:
The following four photos show the water level at a low ‘spring’ tide:
The following photo shows the water level at one hour before a low ‘spring’ tide:
John Falcus is officially the first person to walk the whole of the Lakeland Way in one go. I was absolutely delighted and privileged to meet him at the end to celebrate his completion of the 144 miles.
Neap Tides and Spring Tides
During full or new moons, when the Earth, sun, and moon are nearly in alignment, average tidal ranges are slightly larger. This occurs twice each month. The moon appears new (dark) when it is directly between the Earth and the sun, and full when the Earth is between the moon and the sun. In both cases, the gravitational pull of the sun is added to that of the moon on Earth, causing the oceans to bulge more than usual. This means that high tides are a little higher and low tides are a little lower than average. These are called spring tides.
Seven days after a spring tide, the sun and moon are at right angles to each other. When this happens, the bulge of the ocean caused by the sun partially cancels out that caused by the moon. This produces moderate tides known as neap tides, meaning that high tides are a little lower and low tides are a little higher than average.
What effect do these tidal fluctuations have on the estuary at Eskmeals? The simple answer is very little, unless there has been a prolonged period of bad weather resulting in a storm surge. In this case, travelling to Ravenglass by taxi is recommended. Generally speaking, during a neap tide the water level is usually only a few inches above the knees at its deepest point and is perfectly safe to cross. Please note, however, that the low-tide window for a comfortable crossing is greatly narrowed during a neap tide.
In September 2024, we joined Chris Weldon at the crossing of the River Esk at Eskmeals. Chris started and finished the Lakeland Way in Keswick, so this was actually his halfway point of the 144-mile walk. We arrived to witness a neap tide at the crossing, meaning that the water level was higher than average and just above our knees at its deepest point. Note that there were no sandbanks showing.
At first glance, the water looked intimidating, but once we started to cross, our minds were soon put at rest. We crossed exactly at low tide and, even though it was over our knees and we could feel the tidal current, it was perfectly safe to cross. Chris continued on his journey and completed the Lakeland Way in eight and a half days.
Thanks, sources and further reading:
The Met Office
National Ocean Service