Author Archives for Richard Jennings
June 5, 2025 12:44 pm
Published by Richard Jennings
Good art transforms a space. It introduces something new, often forged from foreign materials like canvas, paint, bronze or stone and worked into a form that redefines and enriches its setting. It can bring the outdoors in, or life to a sterile cityscape. But placing artworks in natural settings can be problematic. The Countryside Code compels us to leave no trace of our presence, so the notion of introducing something man-made is counter intuitive. Even given an artist’s skill in complementing their surroundings, it seems somehow arrogant to assume we can improve on nature. And yet we do this all the time. Agriculture and horticulture are both attempts to instil an artificial order on the natural world, editing out the bits we don’t want and cultivating the bits we do. Why should a well-tended flower bed be somehow less of an aberration than a sculpture made from concrete and steel? Perhaps because the garden showcases our stewardship of nature while the sculpture is an attempt to impose something alien upon it. A wheat field and a quarry are both examples of harvesting natural resources, yet one appeals to our sense of aesthetics while the other offends it. For all their artifice, the garden and the wheat field are part of nature; born of the wild, their order is ephemeral – if left untended, they will quickly revert. We may embrace art in the landscape, but we often find it less controversial when in the ordered environment of a garden or sculpture park; or perhaps, like Gormley’s figures on Formby beach, where we expect human activity. Placing artworks in wilder settings takes a special skill and sensitivity. It is these qualities that have enabled Andy Goldsworthy to succeed. Goldsworthy seldom imposes foreign objects on the landscape. Instead, he works with materials that are already there, like pebbles, petals, twigs and ice. His sculptures are designed to be washed away by waves, melted by sunlight, scattered by the wind. He simply reorganises parts of the environment, so they assume a fleeting new identity then lets the natural order reassert itself. Usually, the only enduring evidence is photographic. Some of his works persist a little longer, however. In 1987, he was commissioned by Grizedale Forest to produce “Taking a wall for a walk”, a dry-stone wall that snakes in and out of the trees as if the pull of nature had compelled it...
May 31, 2025 10:02 am
Published by Richard Jennings
During a wonderful trip backpacking the Lakeland Way in April this year, I took the opportunity to take notes of any issues along the route. Also, after further reflection, I’ve decided that a visit to Walna Scar Quarries is no longer part of the official route, but is now an optional diversion. There’s more about this decision further down this page. Because of this change, the GPX files or PDF maps downloaded before 05.05.25 should be replaced with the following revised files: Full GPX route of the Lakeland Way: Download Day 10 – Coniston to SeathwaiteGPX route: DownloadPDF maps: Download Day 1 – Ravenglass to Wasdale HeadRavenglass station footbridge In 2024 Network Rail announced plans to fully refurbish the footbridge at Ravenglass station on the Cumbrian Coast Line. Although the footbridge is not on the LW route, anyone wanting to reach the start of the walk from Main Street will have to walk along the road and under the main-line bridge. Network Rail have worked with Cumberland Council to put in pedestrian diversion routes, with signage and safety barriers so people can still access both platforms during the work. The much-loved footbridge, first constructed in 1849, was due to be repaired in autumn 2023 with the timber deck being replaced. However, when engineers started work on the bridge, they found the condition was worse than expected and so a full refurbishment and repair was needed. Work began on site in February 2025, with the whole structure removed and transported to a repair facility to be worked on. This includes being fully repainted and restoring it to how it looked in its historic heyday. Doing this work away from the station means they don’t have to close the line and trains can continue to run. The footbridge will then be bought back to site and reinstalled at the station, with the timber deck replaced and safety checks carried out, and then reopened to passengers and the public. In March this year, Network Rail gave an update stating that they aim to have the bridge back open this summer: “The plan now is to work on the bridge offsite and reinstate the bridge in June over a weekend during planned engineering time, to hopefully minimise the impact on passengers. There will be some on-site work after this, such as replacing boards and screening.” Stepping stones near St Catherine’s Church Since I did...
September 4, 2024 9:30 am
Published by Richard Jennings
Several sections on the Lakeland Way include some exposed paths with light grades of rock-scrambling, so please take care and always check for weather updates and be prepared. Lake District conditions are very changeable, so always take the appropriate gear, plenty of food and water, and a vital one to remember is: “GPS devices are handy, but paper maps are essential”. We are happy to provide the detailed information that we do, but you are fully responsible for your own health and safety. If you have any questions regarding any of the sections, please don’t hesitate to contact us – we are happy to help. Be AdventureSmartAsk yourself three questions before you set off: For more information and advice: Adventure Smart Essentials for a safe journey What to do in an emergency Recommended GPS location appsGPS Location apps like OS Maps and What3Words work by translating the geo-location data on your phone into another ‘language’. With OS Locate Me (previously OS Locate), which is now integrated into the OS Maps app, the data is translated into two letters followed by either six or eight digits (eg: NY21350785), and for What3Words it is translated into three words (eg: ///ambition.interacts.creatures). The OS Locate Me language relates to your location according to the National Grid (eight digits are more accurate than six), while the What3Words language relates to a 3m square ‘box’ on the surface of the earth. Mountain Rescue Teams prefer an accurate six or eight digit grid reference, coupled with an accurate description of where you are. On the What3Words app you can change the settings to provide a grid reference as well as three words of your location. During your phone call to the emergency services it is going to be really beneficial if you can accurately confirm your location. The more accurate, the better. But this is where some mistakes are occurring: The two most common errors when using the apps are either that the phone still thinks it’s somewhere else (your phone lost signal in a dead spot at a previous location), or in transmitting the three words over the phone (they are either spoken or heard incorrectly somewhere along the process). For example, ///ambition.interacts.creatures locates you at the notorious junction of Piers Gill on the Corridor Route in the Lake District, while ///ambitions.interacts.creature locates you in the Republic of Congo! With this example it will seem obvious...
August 21, 2024 8:53 am
Published by Richard Jennings
There has been a small route change on Day 4 between Buttermere and Braithwaite. Any GPX or maps downloaded before 21.08.24 should be replaced with the following files: Full GPX route of the Lakeland Way: Download Full GPX route of the Lakeland Way Ultra: Download Day 4 – Buttermere to BraithwaiteGPX route: DownloadPDF maps: Download As you approach the village of Braithwaite towards the end of Day 4, the usual route was to follow a short traverse from the old Force Crag mine road and then down to the village. This path, above Coledale Beck, usually becomes overgrown during the summer months, but in recent years it’s become far worse. In places, the narrow path has given way due to people trying to avoid running the gauntlet of gorse and brambles, and risk damaging those expensive waterproof jackets. Because of this, and with no signs of the path being maintained, a decision has been made to change the route to follow the old mine road to its end, and where it meets the Whinlatter road (B5292). The following images show the state of the path in August 2024: During a family day out enjoying the glorious weather, we decided to do a recce of the traverse. Two weeks prior to this Jaclyn was walking this section while on her Lakeland Way adventure, and had reported the condition of this path. Gorse and brambles now hinder progress along the path. This section is where clothing can get damaged as you try to push your way through the dense undergrowth. The decision has now been made to change this section on Day 4. Emily is seen here climbing up the steep bank and taking a shortcut back to the old mine road. The following three images show the traverse in April 2022, when the path is much easier to walk along: The next image shows the old mine road in May 2018, where it meets the Whinlatter road: Back to the top
June 1, 2024 9:15 am
Published by Richard Jennings
3rd August 2023 – The Big LaunchThe website had been ‘live’ for a year, but folk were starting to come across the site while searching online, so it seemed the time was right to share it on social media. John Falcus, who had searched online for a walk from Patterdale, had come across the site by accident and contacted me on 20th June 2023, to say he was “hooked” on the route and was already in the “advanced” stages of booking his accommodation. John completed the walk on Saturday 29th July, and is officially the first person to walk the whole route in one go. I was absolutely delighted and privileged to cross the River Esk and walk with him for the last mile to Ravenglass. After following John’s adventure and seeing him complete the walk, this was the ‘kick up the butt’ I needed to launch the Lakeland Way and finally share it with the world. Up to this point only a few of my close friends knew about the project; people that had followed the process and provided much encouragement and guidance over the last few years. Even though there was still lots of content to add to the website, there was enough information for any person wanting to give this long-distance walk a go. So, on 3rd August I nervously shared the Lakeland Way on social media, and to be honest I was totally overjoyed by the positive feedback I received that evening. Some favourite comments and feedback: “Fantastic achievement in devising this Richard. Great to see you unveiling it. Can’t wait to walk it.”George Kitching “Richard – you probably won’t remember me, but in 2012 I walked the Coast to Coast and you provided me with some maps and advice for my first ever long-distance walk. I did it and raised £1500 for the Miscarriage Association and two years later I completed the Hadrian’s Wall path with my father – a fantastic father/son bonding experience. The walk you have created looks beautiful and I am inspired by your positivity and kindness. I think it’s so important for our own mental and emotional health to be getting outdoors and doing what you do – very inspiring! I just wanted to write this to say thank you and well done. What an amazing thing to have created this and then to share it with all of us. I...
December 4, 2023 7:50 pm
Published by Richard Jennings
Lord’s BridgeThis elegant double-arched stone bridge spans the River Esk at Muncaster Head. The bridge was built in 1889 by Richard Cousins, who at the time was a well-respected builder from Whitehaven. The bridge was built at the request of Lord Muncaster, who, having acquired the manor of Birker and Austhwaite, wanted to extend his “private” coach road over the parish boundary at the Esk, between Muncaster Head Farm and Forge House (farm). Initially, this coach road on the south side of Muncaster Fell, continued north from Muncaster Head Farm to the parishes of Irton and Eskdale. Prior to the building of the bridge, during the early part of the 1880s, the coach road had many improvements, including diverting and widening of some sections. After the work on the road and the building of the bridge, a much improved link was created between the parishes of Muncaster, and Birker and Austhwaite, and a more direct link into Eskdale. In May 1892, a large crack appeared in the central foundation of Lord’s Bridge, due to a series of floods since its construction three years earlier. Richard Cousins and his team from Whitehaven conducted emergency repairs by temporarily diverting the river, and the necessary work was completed by the following month of June. A few examples of storms leading up to the repairs:On Monday 6th January 1890, after a heavy storm of wind and rain, many streams overflowed their banks and caused many floods in the Lake District. The lakes of Bassenthwaite and Derwent Water met, resulting in many hundreds of acres of land being inundated by flood water. For three days in early October 1890, the district witnessed one of the heaviest falls of rain in living memory. On Wednesday 1st October, the bridge that spans the River Brathray at the hamlet of Skelwith Bridge, collapsed and was carried away. The nearby valley of Langdale resembled a “seething lake”, and the rain gauge on Loughrigg Fell registered 6 inches of rain in 30 hours. On the night of Monday 24th August 1891, houses at the town of Cockermouth were flooded, and Waterloo Bridge which spans the River Cocker was considerably damaged. The following week the Lake District witnessed an extraordinary storm and thousands of acres of land were submerged, destroying all the crops in the path of the flood. Back to the top
November 5, 2023 6:11 pm
Published by Richard Jennings
Where Memory Meets Stone: A look into the life of Sir William Hamer and how his connection to Castle Crag led to the placement of a unique war memorial at its peak. William Heaton Hamer was born in Leeds in 1862, the eldest son of John Hamer, J.P. He was a scholar at Christ’s College, Cambridge, and graduated as the twelfth wrangler in 1882. He pursued a career in medicine and was both a Kirkes Scholar and a Lawrence Scholar at St Bartholomew’s Hospital Medical School. He qualified as M.R.C.S. in 1886 and earned his M.B. the following year. Hamer became a member of the Royal College of Physicians of London in 1889 and was awarded his M.D. in 1890. He entered the medical service of the London County Council in 1892 and joined the British Medical Association in 1893. He was elected F.R.C.P. in 1895. In 1912, he succeeded Sir Shirley Murphy as Medical Officer of Health and School Medical Officer. Hamer was awarded the Bisset Hawkins Medal in 1920 and received a knighthood in January 1923. He retired on 31st December 1925. In 1918, Sir William Hamer and his wife, Agnes, purchased the land at the summit of Castle Crag for £150 from the executors of the estate of Colonel C.V. Conway Gordon. They did so as a memorial to their son, John, aged 20, who was killed in France in March 1918 during the First World War. In 1920, William and Agnes transferred the land to the National Trust, requesting that a plaque affixed to the summit rock on Castle Crag be dedicated solely to their son. However, shortly before his death on 28th May 1920, Canon Hardwicke Drummond Rawnsley—one of the founding members of the National Trust—suggested that the dedication also include the ten men of Borrowdale who died in the First World War. Canon Rawnsley was also a Chaplain to the King and to the Border Regiment Territorials, holding the army rank of Colonel. The plaque, made from local green slate, was erected on 11th June 1921. Castle Crag was given to theNational Trust in memory ofJOHN HAMER2nd Lieut 6th KSLI Born July 8 1897Killed in action March 22 1918Also ofThe following men of BorrowdaleWho died for the same cause2nd Lieut H.E. Layland R.E.Pte G. Bird 1st Border RegtPte E. J. Boow 2nd Border RegtPte J.H. Dover 11th Border RegtPte J. Edmondson 1st Border RegtPte...
October 20, 2023 10:28 am
Published by Richard Jennings
During a wonderful trip camping the Lakeland Way in September 2023, I took the opportunity to record each section again with my GPS device, and also take note of any adjustments that I thought could be made to enhance the route. To give two examples, on Day 12, the routes over Barnscar and up to Stainton Tower are much improved. Also, after further reflection, I’ve included some alternative routes on the PDF maps to avoid areas where weather conditions could have an impact on your progress. Because of these changes, any GPX files or PDF maps downloaded before 20.10.23 should be replaced from the following page: Downloads Crossing the River Esk over the stepping stones near St Catherine’s Church in Eskdale, was always a little tricky; not much sunlight penetrates the canopy of trees along the river, so the stones tend to be slippery most of the time, and it doesn’t take many days of rain for these stones to be submerged. However, during a storm in spring of 2022, two of the boulders dislodged from their position making the crossing even more difficult. It is not known if or when these stones will be put back in line, but a safe alternative route (purple) is to cross the river a little further upstream over Girder Bridge. At first glance you may wonder why the Lakeland Way doesn’t carry on down the road to Dockray? Well, after walking 5 miles along the rough terrain of the Old Coach Road, the grassy pastures leading to Matterdale Church are very rewarding on the feet. This route is of course optional, hence the alternative, but personally a visit to the 16th Century church is worth the extra half mile of walking. A pleasant roadside path along the A5091 then leads to Dockray. Please note that Matterdale Church, as the crow flies, is the furthest point from Ravenglass on the Lakeland Way. Like Matterdale Church, a visit to Walna Scar Quarries is an optional diversion. If time allows, exploring these old quarries and ruins is highly recommended. Traversing Wallowbarrow Gorge is one of the highlights of the Lakeland Way, and is highly recommended if the conditions are suitable. At one section the path is very narrow above a steep drop, so care should be taken especially if the ground is wet. On arrival at Fickle Steps (stepping stones) over the River Duddon, a decision...
October 16, 2023 8:54 am
Published by Richard Jennings
Seen from Lanthwaite Green, Gasgale Gill appears as a gateway to the unknown. It is inviting, but it does contain a few obstacles. At its foot the ravine is narrow and twisting, hiding its true beauty and keeping the walker guessing of what lies ahead. The usual Lakeland Way route turns left after crossing the footbridge and follows a high-level traverse above the gill. However, for a more interesting route that follows the waterfalls and cascades of Liza Beck, turn right after the footbridge. The ravine is very steep-sided, and both traverses include some rocky sections, however, it’s the lower traverse (purple) that should be respected the most and should be avoided in damp conditions. In dry conditions, the short rocky scrambles are a fun playground for the family. Initially the path undulates through heather and over some small rock sections. After a short distance the main waterfall is reached. This is a wonderful location to bathe those aching feet, especially during very hot weather. Note the rock face on the left; this short but steep scramble is the main obstacle on the alternative route and should only be attempted when the rock is dry. Just beyond the rock face the path reappears and continues along Liza Beck. Don’t forget to look down though, or you’ll miss Turtle Rock taking a dip! The deepest pool of all is located a little further up the gill from Turtle Rock. The rocky sections are now complete and the path is much easier to negotiate. However, care still needs to be taken on some of these scree slopes. Some sections of the path have given way to small landslips. This is more apparent deeper in Gasgale Gill and beyond this ‘alternative’ section, where much larger landslips have taken the path completely away. Jaclyn is seen here approaching the point where the lower traverse (alternative route) merges with the higher traverse (Lakeland Way path). A sneak peak around a rock face reveals the continuation of Gasgale Gill, where it widens and rises more gently to higher ground and beyond to Coledale Hause. Emily, Tika and Jaclyn, however, seem keen on walking the whole route to Braithwaite! I finally managed to gather up all members of the Jennings family, and now we are heading back to Lanthwaite Green via the higher traverse. These following images will show the difference in height between the higher traverse...
September 30, 2023 10:57 am
Published by Richard Jennings
Looking over to the west from the Romano-British farmstead on Barnscar, an enclosed marshy depression on Birkby Moor defends the next objective, Stainton Tower. Locally known as the “Pepperpot”, the tower commands the horizon and stands on the last hill and climb on the Lakeland Way. The view from here, looking out to the Irish Sea, is your reward for all your effort over the last twelve days of walking. To get there though, you must survive the Bog of Birkby Moor, and a marsh pool located in the centre of the walled quagmire. Located on a broad raised terrace on Birkby Moor, known as Barnscar, between the steep craggy peaks of Birkby Fell to the east and the steep-sided Muncaster Valley to the north-west, are the remains of three ancient settlements. This Scheduled Monument includes the earthworks and buried remains of a large prehistoric cairnfield within which are two prehistoric hut circle settlements, 15 prehistoric funerary cairns, a Romano-British farmstead and trackway, and a medieval shieling. From the terrace of Barnscar the Romano-British trackway is well-defined, and can be easily followed across the western reaches of Birkby Moor. At the lowest point of the depression a wall is reached that forms a large boundary around an ancient livestock grazing pasture. Today the pasture is still used for grazing livestock, but these are not the only beasts to roam this enclosure. Lurking beneath the purple moor-grass and rush, a serpentine-like creature waits for any walker that wanders off the track. Legend has it that “The Bog Monster of Birkby Moor” coils its body around the legs of cattle until they fall into the marsh, and eventually succumb to the depths of the waterlogged peat. Over time their bodies become mummified larders for the creature to devour during lean times. The wettest area of the marsh is just beyond this lonely tree on some raised ground in the centre of the enclosed pasture. Where the trackway enters the wettest area of the marsh, the bog monster has churned up the peat below to create a ‘marsh pool’ and a trap for any unsuspecting walkers or animals that venture this way. To avoid the trap walk across three or four metres over on the left, and take advantage of the tall tussocks that provide a safer passage. Over on the right the marsh is mostly made up of a raft of moss...
