Author Archives for Richard Jennings
December 4, 2023 7:50 pm
Published by Richard Jennings
Lord’s BridgeThis elegant double-arched stone bridge spans the River Esk at Muncaster Head. The bridge was built in 1889 by Richard Cousins, who at the time was a well-respected builder from Whitehaven. The bridge was built at the request of Lord Muncaster, who, having acquired the manor of Birker and Austhwaite, wanted to extend his “private” coach road over the parish boundary at the Esk, between Muncaster Head Farm and Forge House (farm). Initially, this coach road on the south side of Muncaster Fell, continued north from Muncaster Head Farm to the parishes of Irton and Eskdale. Prior to the building of the bridge, during the early part of the 1880s, the coach road had many improvements, including diverting and widening of some sections. After the work on the road and the building of the bridge, a much improved link was created between the parishes of Muncaster, and Birker and Austhwaite, and a more direct link into Eskdale. In May 1892, a large crack appeared in the central foundation of Lord’s Bridge, due to a series of floods since its construction three years earlier. Richard Cousins and his team from Whitehaven conducted emergency repairs by temporarily diverting the river, and the necessary work was completed by the following month of June. A few examples of storms leading up to the repairs:On Monday 6th January 1890, after a heavy storm of wind and rain, many streams overflowed their banks and caused many floods in the Lake District. The lakes of Bassenthwaite and Derwent Water met, resulting in many hundreds of acres of land being inundated by flood water. For three days in early October 1890, the district witnessed one of the heaviest falls of rain in living memory. On Wednesday 1st October, the bridge that spans the River Brathray at the hamlet of Skelwith Bridge, collapsed and was carried away. The nearby valley of Langdale resembled a “seething lake”, and the rain gauge on Loughrigg Fell registered 6 inches of rain in 30 hours. On the night of Monday 24th August 1891, houses at the town of Cockermouth were flooded, and Waterloo Bridge which spans the River Cocker was considerably damaged. The following week the Lake District witnessed an extraordinary storm and thousands of acres of land were submerged, destroying all the crops in the path of the flood.
November 5, 2023 6:11 pm
Published by Richard Jennings
Where Memory Meets Stone: A look into the life of Sir William Hamer and how his connection to Castle Crag led to the placement of a unique war memorial at its peak. William Heaton Hamer was born in Leeds in 1862, the eldest son of John Hamer, J.P. He was a scholar at Christ’s College, Cambridge, and graduated as the twelfth wrangler in 1882. He pursued a career in medicine and was both a Kirkes Scholar and a Lawrence Scholar at St Bartholomew’s Hospital Medical School. He qualified as M.R.C.S. in 1886 and earned his M.B. the following year. Hamer became a member of the Royal College of Physicians of London in 1889 and was awarded his M.D. in 1890. He entered the medical service of the London County Council in 1892 and joined the British Medical Association in 1893. He was elected F.R.C.P. in 1895. In 1912, he succeeded Sir Shirley Murphy as Medical Officer of Health and School Medical Officer. Hamer was awarded the Bisset Hawkins Medal in 1920 and received a knighthood in January 1923. He retired on 31st December 1925. In 1918, Sir William Hamer and his wife, Agnes, purchased the land at the summit of Castle Crag for £150 from the executors of the estate of Colonel C.V. Conway Gordon. They did so as a memorial to their son, John, aged 20, who was killed in France in March 1918 during the First World War. In 1920, William and Agnes transferred the land to the National Trust, requesting that a plaque affixed to the summit rock on Castle Crag be dedicated solely to their son. However, shortly before his death on 28th May 1920, Canon Hardwicke Drummond Rawnsley—one of the founding members of the National Trust—suggested that the dedication also include the ten men of Borrowdale who died in the First World War. Canon Rawnsley was also a Chaplain to the King and to the Border Regiment Territorials, holding the army rank of Colonel. The plaque, made from local green slate, was erected on 11th June 1921. Castle Crag was given to theNational Trust in memory ofJOHN HAMER2nd Lieut 6th KSLI Born July 8 1897Killed in action March 22 1918Also ofThe following men of BorrowdaleWho died for the same cause2nd Lieut H.E. Layland R.E.Pte G. Bird 1st Border RegtPte E. J. Boow 2nd Border RegtPte J.H. Dover 11th Border RegtPte J. Edmondson 1st Border RegtPte...
October 20, 2023 10:28 am
Published by Richard Jennings
During a wonderful trip camping the Lakeland Way in September 2023, I took the opportunity to record each section again with my GPS device, and also take note of any adjustments that I thought could be made to enhance the route. To give two examples, on Day 12, the routes over Barnscar and up to Stainton Tower are much improved. Also, after further reflection, I’ve included some alternative routes on the PDF maps to avoid areas where weather conditions could have an impact on your progress. Because of these changes, any GPX files or PDF maps downloaded before 20.10.23 should be replaced from the following page: Downloads Crossing the River Esk over the stepping stones near St Catherine’s Church in Eskdale, was always a little tricky; not much sunlight penetrates the canopy of trees along the river, so the stones tend to be slippery most of the time, and it doesn’t take many days of rain for these stones to be submerged. However, during a storm in spring of 2022, two of the boulders dislodged from their position making the crossing even more difficult. It is not known if or when these stones will be put back in line, but a safe alternative route (purple) is to cross the river a little further upstream over Girder Bridge. At first glance you may wonder why the Lakeland Way doesn’t carry on down the road to Dockray? Well, after walking 5 miles along the rough terrain of the Old Coach Road, the grassy pastures leading to Matterdale Church are very rewarding on the feet. This route is of course optional, hence the alternative, but personally a visit to the 16th Century church is worth the extra half mile of walking. A pleasant roadside path along the A5091 then leads to Dockray. Please note that Matterdale Church, as the crow flies, is the furthest point from Ravenglass on the Lakeland Way. Like Matterdale Church, a visit to Walna Scar Quarries is an optional diversion. If time allows, exploring these old quarries and ruins is highly recommended. Traversing Wallowbarrow Gorge is one of the highlights of the Lakeland Way, and is highly recommended if the conditions are suitable. At one section the path is very narrow above a steep drop, so care should be taken especially if the ground is wet. On arrival at Fickle Steps (stepping stones) over the River Duddon, a decision...
October 16, 2023 8:54 am
Published by Richard Jennings
Seen from Lanthwaite Green, Gasgale Gill appears as a gateway to the unknown. It is inviting, but it does contain a few obstacles. At its foot the ravine is narrow and twisting, hiding its true beauty and keeping the walker guessing of what lies ahead. The official Lakeland Way path turns left after crossing the footbridge and follows a high-level traverse above the gill. However, for a more interesting route that follows the waterfalls and cascades of Liza Beck, turn right after the footbridge. The ravine is very steep-sided, and both routes include some rocky sections, however, it’s the lower route (purple) that should be respected the most and should be avoided in damp conditions. In dry conditions, the short rocky scrambles are a fun playground for the family. Initially the path undulates through heather and over some small rock sections. After a short distance the main waterfall is reached. This is a wonderful location to bathe those aching feet, especially during very hot weather. Note the rock face on the left; this short but steep scramble is the main obstacle on the low-level route and should only be attempted when the rock is dry. Just beyond the rock face the path reappears and continues along Liza Beck. Don’t forget to look down though, or you’ll miss Turtle Rock taking a dip! The deepest pool of all is located a little further up the gill from Turtle Rock. The rocky sections are now complete and the path is much easier to negotiate. However, care still needs to be taken on some of these scree slopes. Some sections of the path have given way to small landslips. This is more apparent deeper in Gasgale Gill and beyond this ‘low-level’ section, where much larger landslips have taken the path completely away. Jaclyn is seen here approaching the point where the low-level route merges with the high-level traverse (Lakeland Way path). A sneak peak around a rock face reveals the continuation of Gasgale Gill, where it widens and rises more gently to higher ground and beyond to Coledale Hause. Emily, Tika and Jaclyn, however, seem keen on walking the whole route to Braithwaite! I finally managed to gather up all members of the Jennings family, and now we are heading back to Lanthwaite Green via the high-level traverse. These following images will show the difference in height between the high-level traverse and the...
September 30, 2023 10:57 am
Published by Richard Jennings
Looking over to the west from the Romano-British farmstead on Barnscar, an enclosed marshy depression on Birkby Moor defends the next objective, Stainton Tower. Locally known as the “Pepperpot”, the tower commands the horizon and stands on the last hill and climb on the Lakeland Way. The view from here, looking out to the Irish Sea, is your reward for all your effort over the last twelve days of walking. To get there though, you must survive the Bog of Birkby Moor, and a marsh pool located in the centre of the walled quagmire. Located on a broad raised terrace on Birkby Moor, known as Barnscar, between the steep craggy peaks of Birkby Fell to the east and the steep-sided Muncaster Valley to the north-west, are the remains of three ancient settlements. This Scheduled Monument includes the earthworks and buried remains of a large prehistoric cairnfield within which are two prehistoric hut circle settlements, 15 prehistoric funerary cairns, a Romano-British farmstead and trackway, and a medieval shieling. From the terrace of Barnscar the Romano-British trackway is well-defined, and can be easily followed across the western reaches of Birkby Moor. At the lowest point of the depression a wall is reached that forms a large boundary around an ancient livestock grazing pasture. Today the pasture is still used for grazing livestock, but these are not the only beasts to roam this enclosure. Lurking beneath the purple moor-grass and rush, a serpentine-like creature waits for any walker that wanders off the track. Legend has it that “The Bog Monster of Birkby Moor” coils its body around the legs of cattle until they fall into the marsh, and eventually succumb to the depths of the waterlogged peat. Over time their bodies become mummified larders for the creature to devour during lean times. The wettest area of the marsh is just beyond this lonely tree on some raised ground in the centre of the enclosed pasture. Where the trackway enters the wettest area of the marsh, the bog monster has churned up the peat below to create a ‘marsh pool’ and a trap for any unsuspecting walkers or animals that venture this way. To avoid the trap walk across three or four metres over on the left, and take advantage of the tall tussocks that provide a safer passage. Over on the right the marsh is mostly made up of a raft of moss...
September 14, 2023 1:57 pm
Published by Richard Jennings
Sunday 10th September, 2023Day 9Dow Bank to Coniston Sports & Social Centre – 10.5 miles 06:40Morning, and look how wonderful this is! I woke at 6am and peeked out of the tent to witness a fantastic inversion in the valley below. It is now sunrise, and there’s a wonderful red glow on the horizon, with stillness in the air. I had a wonderful sleep last night — the best so far — and I feel totally refreshed for the day ahead. My feet are feeling much better now too, so I’m confident they will get me over the finishing line in four days’ time. 07:20I had a good wander around to take some photos and I’m now having my morning coffee. I’ve no rush at the moment, so I can let the tent dry out a little. Sitting here sipping coffee and looking at the view through my tent is sheer bliss. It’s nice to watch the inversion retreat as the early rising sun warms the valley below. I don’t want to leave, but I have a full English breakfast waiting for me in the village a short distance away. There’s no better incentive than that! I’ve just gone over to the main summit of Dow Bank before getting on with packing my gear. Can you spot the tent over on the right? It’s certainly catching the sun this morning, which is a nice change from previous mornings, so it should be much lighter to carry today. 09:00I’m now starting my descent from Dow Bank to the village of Chapel Stile, which you can see in the photo down on the right. This is a very steep drop from the col, so it’s best to take my time, especially with having this heavy pack. Look at those clouds building up though — today thunderstorms are predicted, so I’ve got my waterproofs handy at the top of my pack. 09:45I’ve just arrived at the village shop and café in Chapel Stile. This is a great opportunity to replenish my stock of snacks for the next few days. It’s only taken me 50 minutes to leave my pitch on Dow Bank and be sat here looking at this masterpiece! 11:45I didn’t take many photos on the next section of the walk. With plenty of fuel in the old belly, and the thought of a serious downpour later, I decided to push on...
September 10, 2023 8:42 am
Published by Richard Jennings
Wednesday 6th September, 2023Day 5Castlerigg Farm to Brown Hills – 13 miles 07:35Morning all, and it’s another glorious start. I had a wonderful night here at Castlerigg Farm — six solid hours of sleep — and I’m feeling pretty good, apart from my right foot which is still sore after yesterday’s epic walk from Buttermere. I’ve had a lazy start, making the most of the excellent facilities; the showers are free and spacious, so I couldn’t resist another dip before breakfast. Sadly, it’s plain old pasta and soup again, but at least I’ve got a good variety of snacks to keep me going on the way to Brown Hills. 08:40I’ve been sat here for an hour now, chatting with fellow campers and just relaxing — anyone would think I was on holiday! Still, I’d best start packing up my gear and preparing for another hot day’s walking on the Lakeland Way. 10:00How do you move two horses from a gate? They were actually in separate fields but had obviously come together for a good old natter. I couldn’t persuade them to budge, so in the end I had to climb over a stone wall. Hopefully nobody saw this little fiasco! I didn’t really want to leave the campsite; in fact, I hung around long enough for the tent to completely dry and eventually set off at 9:30am. I’m now on the track heading east from the site, with Blencathra dominating the view ahead. 10:45I’m sitting on a rocky outcrop, looking back towards Castle Rigg (the campsite is out of view on the other side of the ridge). Walking over these grassy, open fields was a delight this morning, and my feet are certainly thankful for it. However, this feeling won’t last for long: a mile away lies the beginning of the Old Coach Road, a five-mile stony track all the way to Dockray. First, though, it’s a visit to St John’s Church. 11:00I’ve just arrived at the church only to discover that the outside tap is “out of order.” Yet again I’ve made the silly mistake of expecting things to be the same as on previous visits — just as I did with the shop in Braithwaite. I hadn’t carried much water from the campsite, and I know that anything collected along the Old Coach Road will be poor quality — brown and peaty at best. Thankfully, the lads from...
September 6, 2023 5:00 pm
Published by Richard Jennings
Saturday 2nd September, 2023Day 1Ravenglass to Wasdale Head Inn — 14.5 miles 08:00“I woke up this morning feeling fine, with something special on my mind!” That was me humming to myself 48 hours ago, having just looked at the weather forecast for the next two weeks. One hour later, after begging my wife to set me free, I rang the boss to give him the bad news. I then spent the rest of the day planning the itinerary and pre-booking campsites and evening meals. The following day my wife and I were running around like headless chickens, buying essentials and getting all my gear ready. My poor family — the things I put them through! However, with their help, and of course the boss for giving me time off at such short notice, my Lakeland Way adventure would never have started. I’m now in the process of putting my gear in the car, ready for my wife to take me to Ravenglass on the west coast of Cumbria. It won’t be easy to leave my family behind, as I’ve never spent this much time away from them. Maybe my wife and daughter are looking forward to a break and some freedom, or will they pine for my return? It’s probably best not knowing either way! 11:30Here I am at the Ravenglass & Eskdale Steam Railway turntable, the starting point of the Lakeland Way. Believe it or not, I’m actually pulling my stomach in for this shot. Maybe I’ll look a tad different at the end? On my Coast to Coast walk in 2011, I actually put on a stone in weight, but that was with the luxury of using a luggage transfer company and staying in posh hotels and B&Bs. However, this walk is going to be very different, as it will include carrying all my gear and camping each night. So off I go, leaving my wife to hold the fort for twelve days. I’ve only walked a few hundred yards out of the village and I’m already living off the land, stuffing my face with succulent blackberries. Maybe I didn’t need to carry all this food after all! It looks like the crumbling walls and arches of the Roman bath house have gained some temporary supports after recent concerns about collapse. Walking over the grassy hill of the old Muncaster deer forest is as pleasant as ever; don’t...
August 26, 2023 2:04 pm
Published by Richard Jennings
The combination of fording the River Esk and the beach walk to Ravenglass forms the grand finale of the Lakeland Way. However, a low-tide window is required to cross the river at the Eskmeals Viaduct and continue the mile or so to the Market Cross in the centre of the coastal village. The length of this window is subjective and can be one hour (comfortable) or two hours (doable) on either side of low tide; both are very safe. In my experience, the water level has never reached above my knees at one and a half hours on either side of a low ‘spring’ tide (see Neap Tides and Spring Tides below). With this in mind, it is important to plan your Lakeland Way adventure so that low tide falls in the afternoon, as this crossing comes at the end of day 12. Ideally, a low tide between 3pm and 4pm would be my preference, but anytime between 2pm and 5pm is also workable. Tide Times Tide times tell you when the water will be at its highest point (high tide) and at its lowest point (low tide). In the UK, there are usually two high tides and two low tides in a 24-hour period. The times at which high and low tide occur change from day to day. For example, if the tide is at its lowest at 3pm today, it is likely to be later tomorrow. Tide times are generally available for the next seven days for around 500 port locations around the UK and can be predicted with a high degree of accuracy. However, due to storm surges and other factors, predicting tide times a long way into the future can be less accurate. For a weekly forecast: www.tideschart.com/RavenglassFor a long-range forecast: Tide Tables Although tide times are generally reliable, long periods of bad weather can cause the sea to swell and push tides into the estuaries before the predicted times, so it’s important to assess the conditions and make an informed decision on the day. Other factors may also play a part; for example, you could be delayed due to unforeseen circumstances or may have misjudged the time it takes to walk the final day. It is at Stainton Tower that a decision can be made on which route to take to Ravenglass: whether to continue on the Lakeland Way to Waberthwaite and Newbiggin and then...
August 9, 2023 5:36 pm
Published by Richard Jennings
There has been a small route change on Day 7 between Hayeswater Gill and The Knott. Any GPX or maps downloaded before 09.08.23 should be replaced with the following files: GPX route: DownloadPDF maps: Download On the map above, which was surveyed in 1859, you can see a section of the old packhorse track between the hamlet of Hartsop and The Knott. After crossing Hayeswater Gill, the course of the track takes a zig-zag climb up the steep western shoulder of The Knott. The track then continues and merges with the High Street Roman Road at the Straits of Riggindale. This route was a vital trading link between the valley of Patterdale and its neighbouring valleys of Mardale and Kentmere. On today’s maps, the route is still shown as a bridleway, but sadly a large section of the track, beyond the footbridge, has been lost to time and only a faint trace of it can be seen. On closer inspection, a few old cairns, partially hidden by long grass, can be spotted along the course of the old track. On the map above I’ve illustrated the two paths that exist today on the western shoulder of The Knott. Paths like these, which are more direct, are formed when a route is more popular as a way off the fells and less so as a way up. As a result of this, the zig-zag section of the bridleway became undesirable. Initially the Lakeland Way followed the direct path from the weir at Hayeswater, but after many days of persistent rain the crossing here can be difficult to negotiate and result in very wet feet. It was John Falcus, the first person to walk the whole of the Lakeland Way in one go, who notified me of this problem after he finished his walk in July 2023. As a result of this information provided by John, and a recce of the paths by myself on the 8th August, the Lakeland Way now takes a route over the footbridge and follows the direct path that runs parallel with the wall. It is a shame that this part of the old packhorse route is lost. Instead, we are left with a laborious ascent.
